Instructions and Tip Sheets

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General Tips - Calculate your displacement

General Tips - Stroker Installation

General Tips - Cylinder Installation

General Tips - Deck Height Measurement

General Tips - How do degree in your camshaft

Yamaha YFZ-450 - DD05 stroker crank (488cc kit)

Yamaha YFZ-450 and YZ-450F - 502cc kit

Yamaha FJ-1100/FJ-1200 - Clutch Modification

Hayabusa Oil Pan Baffle Installation

V-Rod Steel Rod Installation

GSX-R Sprocket Installation

RMZ-450 Sprocket Installation

YFZ/ YZ-450 & YZ-250 Sprocket Installation

LTR-450 Sprocket Installation

ZX SERIES Sprocket Installation

If you don't see the document you need, please call us. 727-797-2468



Step 1 - Proper oiling is critical for engine break-in and long engine life.

Step 2 - Nearly all aspects of bearing performance are linked to lubrication.

Step 3 - For proper lubrication, there must be oil film formation sufficient to support the load.


The three key parameters are bearing/oil temperature, minimum oil film thickness and peak oil film pressure. Bearing clearance is the most critical aspect in controlling these parameters.


Bearing/oil temperature should be warm, not hot. Bearing temperature is an inverse function of oil flow. As oil flow increases, bearing temperature decreases.

Peak oil film pressure should be minimized. Low clearance will produce a wide arc of contact, and low film pressure. High clearance will cause a narrow arc of contact and high film pressure. Most crankshafts perform best with the manufacturers recommended clearances. Proper case/bearing alignment is critical.

Oil film thickness should be maximized. Change oil often! Use thin oils with caution, and only with modified systems to increase flow.

All crank repairs performed by Falicon are toleranced for standard bearing clearance. We highly recommend using the original equipment manufacturers's recommended oil for crankshaft and connecting rod break in.



New connecting rods also need to be "broken in" before installation. Use this procedure for break-in of your new rods.

Step 1 - Clamp your new rod in a rod vice or machinists' vice between two pieces of wood. Loosen and tighten each bolt gradually to the torque specification approximately 5 cycles. To disassemble the rod, partially loosen each bolt, remove the rod from the vice and lay the rod on a flat surface. Tap on the ends of the rods to drive the rod from the cap. Loosen the bolts and pull the cap as straight as possible. Use caution to prevent damage to the hollow alignment dowels.

Step 2 - Install the piston to the rod if appropriate, then assemble a bearing half to the rod and cap. If you are not certain if your bearing is the proper size, you will need to pre-assemble the rod and bearing, torque the bolts to the proper value and measure the inside diameter. Measure the appropriate crank journal and verify that the bearing oil clearance is correct. Use the OEM-recommended tolerances.

Important - We highly recommend using a stretch gage when installing our Knife® Connecting Rods. Of all the effort applied to a given fastener, more than 50% is the torque required to simply overcome friction that must be overcome to cause a nut or bolt to turn. ARP recommends the bolt-stretch method since the pre-load is closely controlled with a gauge and it is independent of friction.


Step 1 - Falicon rods may be installed in either direction. Install the rod assembly onto the crankshaft. Using caution, orient the cap and rod serial numbers and align the cap with the location dowels. Tap the cap into place with a soft mallet. Do not use the bolts to pull the cap into position! Apply additional ARP lubricant to the bolt threads and under the bolt head. Install the bolts and tighten until snug.

Step 2 - Place shim stock between the rod and crankshaft thrust faces. This will help support the rod cap and prevent distortion in the rod housing bore during the final tightening process. (If you have not cycled the bolts in the rods, this is your last opportunity. See rod assembly bread-in procedure.) Tighten each bolt in 5 foot-pound increments to 20 foot-pounds (240 inch-pounds). Do not stop here - the bolts are NOT tight!

Step 3 - Final tightening procedure using the preferred bolt-stretch method. Seat the pointed ends of the stretch gage into the bolt dimples. Adjust the gauge so that it has approximately 0.040" (1mm) preload. Align the needle to "0" and tighten each bolt until the prescribed stretch is achieved.